Vermeil
/vehr-MAY/
Definition
Sterling silver (92.5% pure) coated with a thick layer of gold (minimum 10k, minimum 2.5 microns thick) through electroplating. A legally defined term in the US with specific purity and thickness requirements.
Vermeil (pronounced vehr-MAY) is a specific designation for gold-over-silver jewelry, regulated by the US Federal Trade Commission. To qualify as vermeil, three criteria must be met: the base metal must be sterling silver (925), the gold plating must be at least 10k (usually 14k or 18k), and the gold layer must be at least 2.5 microns thick. This last requirement is what distinguishes vermeil from standard gold-plated jewelry — regular gold plating can be as thin as 0.5 microns. Vermeil offers the appearance of solid gold at a fraction of the cost, with better durability than flash-plated pieces. However, the gold layer will eventually wear through with daily use, especially at friction points (ring shanks, bracelet clasps). Vermeil is a popular middle ground between costume jewelry and fine jewelry.
Usage in the Trade
Vermeil is used in fashion jewelry, bridge jewelry (between costume and fine), and affordable luxury collections. It is popular for statement pieces, earrings, and necklaces where wear resistance is less critical.