Asscher Diamond

The Asscher cut was developed in 1902 by Joseph Asscher of the Royal Asscher Diamond Company in Amsterdam, the same company that cleaved the legendary 3,106-carat Cullinan diamond. The original Asscher cut had 58 facets and was the first patented diamond cut. In 2001, the Royal Asscher Company released an updated version with 74 facets—known as the Royal Asscher—that delivers improved light performance while maintaining the distinctive concentric pattern. The Asscher's square step-cut design shares the emerald cut's hall-of-mirrors optical character but in a square format, which creates a unique 'X' or windmill pattern visible when looking directly into the stone. This effect is more dramatic and hypnotic than the emerald cut's linear flashes, making the Asscher a favorite among buyers drawn to Art Deco and vintage aesthetics. The deeply cut corners, which give the stone its octagonal outline, also reduce chipping risk compared to sharp-cornered squares like the princess cut. Like all step cuts, Asschers are transparent about their quality. The large, open table and long facets make inclusions and body color highly visible, which means buyers should invest in higher clarity (VS2 minimum) and color (G or above in white metals). In the trade, Asschers represent about 2% of the market and are priced 25-35% below round brilliants. They require a buyer who appreciates architectural beauty over raw sparkle—and those buyers tend to be highly passionate about their choice.