Heart Diamond
The heart shape is the ultimate symbol of romance in diamond form—a modified brilliant cut with a distinctive cleft at the top and a point at the bottom. It's one of the most technically demanding shapes to cut well, requiring exceptional symmetry to achieve its recognizable outline.
Overview
The heart-shaped diamond is essentially a pear shape with a cleft (notch) cut into the rounded end, creating the two symmetrical lobes that form the top of the heart. This modification makes it one of the most technically difficult shapes to execute, as the cutter must achieve perfect bilateral symmetry while maintaining optimal faceting for light performance. Even slight asymmetry—one lobe larger than the other, or the cleft not centered—is immediately apparent to the naked eye.
Due to the cutting complexity, heart shapes represent a very small percentage of the market (under 2%), and truly well-cut examples are relatively rare. The shape works best at larger carat weights—generally 1 carat and above—because the distinctive heart outline becomes difficult to discern in smaller stones, where it can resemble a round or shapeless blob. Below 0.50 carats, the heart shape is generally not recommended unless set in a bezel that defines the outline.
Pricing for heart shapes typically falls 20-30% below round brilliants, reflecting lower demand rather than any inherent quality issue. In the trade, hearts are most commonly purchased as gifts with sentimental significance—Valentine's Day, anniversaries, or as symbols of deep personal connection. While they may not be the mainstream choice for engagement rings, buyers who choose hearts tend to be the most emotionally invested in their purchase, making the selling experience particularly rewarding for jewelers who understand how to present them.
Carat to Millimeter Chart
Approximate face-up dimensions for heart diamonds at each carat weight.
| Carat Weight | Size (mm) |
|---|---|
| 0.25 ct | 3.8 x 3.8 |
| 0.5 ct | 5.0 x 5.0 |
| 0.75 ct | 5.8 x 5.8 |
| 1 ct | 6.5 x 6.5 |
| 1.25 ct | 6.9 x 6.9 |
| 1.5 ct | 7.4 x 7.4 |
| 2 ct | 8.1 x 8.1 |
| 3 ct | 9.2 x 9.2 |
| 4 ct | 10.0 x 10.0 |
| 5 ct | 10.8 x 10.8 |
Pros & Cons
Advantages
- +The most romantic and symbolic of all diamond shapes
- +Good brilliance as a modified brilliant cut
- +20-30% less expensive than comparable round brilliants
- +Unique and immediately recognizable—makes a powerful personal statement
- +Strong sentimental value that resonates deeply with recipients
- +The brilliant faceting hides inclusions reasonably well
Disadvantages
- -Extremely difficult to cut well—symmetry issues are common and highly visible
- -The pointed tip is vulnerable to chipping and requires protective setting
- -The heart outline becomes indistinct below 0.75 carats
- -Very limited inventory of well-cut stones—finding the right one takes patience
- -May be perceived as overly sentimental for some tastes
- -Resale value is lower than more popular shapes due to niche demand
- -Bow-tie effect can appear across the center of the stone
Buying Tips
- •Go for 1 carat or above—the heart shape is difficult to distinguish in smaller stones
- •Symmetry is the single most important factor: both lobes must match, and the cleft must be centered
- •Protect the pointed tip with a V-prong or bezel—this is the most fragile part of the stone
- •Request video or multiple images from different angles to thoroughly evaluate symmetry
- •The cleft should be distinct and well-defined, not shallow or rounded over
- •SI1 clarity is usually eye-clean in hearts due to the brilliant facet pattern
- •For pendant use, orient the point downward with the lobes at the top for the most natural look
- •Consider a thin bezel frame for stones under 0.75ct to visually reinforce the heart outline