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Oval Diamond

The oval diamond combines the brilliance of a round brilliant with an elongated silhouette that creates the illusion of greater size. It has surged in popularity over the past decade, becoming the second most requested shape for engagement rings.

Overview

The oval brilliant was developed by Lazare Kaplan in the 1960s as a modified brilliant cut that retains the fire and scintillation of a round while offering a more distinctive look. The elongated shape flatters the finger by creating a lengthening effect, which is one of the primary reasons it has become so popular for engagement rings. One of the key considerations with ovals is the bow-tie effect—a dark shadow that appears across the center of the stone when viewed face-up. Nearly all ovals exhibit some degree of bow-tie, but in well-cut stones it is minimal and adds depth to the stone's appearance. A pronounced bow-tie, however, indicates poor light return in the center and should be avoided. Because labs do not provide cut grades for ovals, evaluating bow-tie severity requires visual inspection or high-quality imagery. From a value perspective, ovals typically cost 15-25% less than equivalent round brilliants because they retain more rough crystal weight during cutting. Their elongated shape also means they face up larger than rounds of the same carat weight—a 1-carat oval appears roughly 10% larger than a 1-carat round when viewed from above. This combination of lower price and larger appearance makes ovals an excellent value proposition for budget-conscious buyers who don't want to sacrifice visual impact.

Carat to Millimeter Chart

Approximate face-up dimensions for oval diamonds at each carat weight.

Carat WeightSize (mm)
0.25 ct5.0 x 3.5
0.5 ct6.0 x 4.0
0.75 ct7.0 x 5.0
1 ct7.7 x 5.7
1.25 ct8.0 x 6.0
1.5 ct8.5 x 6.5
2 ct9.5 x 7.0
3 ct11.0 x 7.5
4 ct12.0 x 8.5
5 ct13.0 x 9.0

Pros & Cons

Advantages

  • +Faces up 10% larger than a round of the same carat weight
  • +Elongated shape creates a flattering, finger-lengthening effect
  • +15-25% less expensive than equivalent round brilliants
  • +Excellent brilliance—comparable to round in well-cut stones
  • +Versatile shape that works in many setting styles
  • +Trending strongly—modern and fashionable without being trendy

Disadvantages

  • -Bow-tie effect is present in virtually all ovals; severity varies with cut quality
  • -No standardized cut grading from major labs—requires careful visual evaluation
  • -Color tends to show more at the pointed ends than in rounds
  • -More susceptible to the 'crushed ice' look if poorly cut
  • -Requires more expertise to evaluate quality without lab cut grades

Buying Tips

  • Always request video or high-quality images to evaluate bow-tie severity—lab reports won't tell you
  • Stick to L/W ratios between 1.35-1.50 for the most balanced, classic oval shape
  • Color is more visible in ovals than rounds—consider staying H color or higher, especially in white gold or platinum
  • Check symmetry carefully: the two halves should mirror each other and the ends should match in width
  • VS2 or SI1 clarity is usually eye-clean in ovals, but verify inclusions aren't concentrated at the narrow ends
  • Consider a six-prong setting with prongs at the tips to protect the pointed ends from chipping