Marquise Diamond

According to legend, the marquise shape was commissioned by King Louis XV of France in the 18th century to mimic the lip shape of his mistress, the Marquise de Pompadour. Whether or not the story is true, the marquise has endured as one of the most distinctive diamond shapes, offering an unmistakable silhouette that no other cut can replicate. The marquise's greatest technical advantage is its face-up size. The elongated shape, typically with a length-to-width ratio of 1.75:1 to 2.25:1, spreads the diamond's weight across a larger surface area than any other shape. A well-cut 1-carat marquise can appear as large as a 1.5-carat round brilliant when viewed from above. This makes the marquise an exceptional choice for buyers who want maximum visual impact per carat spent. However, the marquise also presents several cutting and setting challenges. Both pointed tips are vulnerable to chipping and must be protected with V-prongs. The bow-tie effect—a dark shadow across the center—is nearly universal in marquise diamonds, and its severity is the single most important factor in determining visual quality. Additionally, symmetry is paramount: the two pointed ends must align perfectly, and the two curved sides must mirror each other. In the trade, well-cut marquise diamonds with minimal bow-tie are increasingly rare, which has kept the shape as more of a niche choice despite its excellent value proposition at 20-30% below round brilliant pricing.